EPISODE I: COSTUMED ROYALTY!

A look at just one amazing costume for Queen Amidala seen in EPISODE I. Stunning image by Annie Leibovitz for Vanity Fair magazine.

Never has there been a Star Wars film before or since where the costume design of the characters has been so important to the overall storytelling function than in The Phantom Menace, and especially with regards to the life and duties of Naboo's beloved Queen Amidala, as played by a very young Natalie Portman, who instantly fell in love with the designs, and inspired her acting choices, brought to her in full creation by Trisha Biggar over three months filming in 1997. 

Three shots taken by Nigel Parry for Lucasfilm to use in publicity.

A French film magazine cover from 1999.

AN 'EMPIRE' AT 45: INTRODUCING LANDO... KADAR?!

Super-smooth, with a smile like a supernova: introducing Billy Dee Williams as Baron Lando Calrissian, leader of Bespin's Cloud City realm. 

“He’s a very charming, cavalier, roguish character- he’s very much like Han. I think the difference between them is that Han in a pinch will use his guns and Lando will charm his way out of a situation.”

Billy Dee Williams interview - Starlog magazine - 1980

Originally starring life in George Lucas's storyline for Star Wars II as Lando Kadar, the Baron Administrator of Cloud City was originally a tougher, though charismatic, rival to Han Solo in many ways, of which respected actor Yaphet Kotto, who has just finished playing one of the lead parts in Fox’s other sci-fi hit then currently in 1978 production, Alien, is offered the role. Kotto turns Lando down, allegedly because of typecasting worries in the sci-fi genre - that it might be difficult for him to find work afterwards. 

"How ya doin' you old pirate?!" A warm greeting for Lando's old rival, Han Solo, at Cloud City.

With Lando beginning to evolve a few months later into a smoother type of character to the one previously created (soon conceived as an alternate version of what Han would be like had he not hooked up with the Rebellion), Lucas and Kershner look towards a different type of actor for the role. Billy Dee Williams, born and raised in New York City, where he studied at the Actors Workshop under the tutelage of Paul Mann (before receiving a scholarship to the National Academy of Fine Arts and Design, where he won many awards, including the Hallgarten award for painting - an interest which he continues with to this day, alongside his acting), is soon right at the top of Irvin Kershner’s thoughts to play the new Lando (the actor having also been considered at one point to play Han Solo back in George Lucas’s 1975’s screen tests - the young Lucas prior impressed with his performance alongside Diana Ross in Lady Sings the Blues), seeing so many of Calrissian’s charming, adventurous traits in the actor. Visiting Williams at his US home, Kershner, after several hours discussing numerous topics (including European-Western philosophy) tells Billy Dee about the role and offers it to him, without the need for a screen test. Instantly falling in love with the name Lando Calrissian (a surname which is actually of American origin), and liking his character description, Williams accepts the role and will soon be on his way to London for costume tests and filming (though given an incomplete script at that time) by April 1979.

Interviewed in the Star Wars Office at Elstree Studios by French cameraman/interviewer Michel Parbot, for documentary/publicity footage. 

The first officially released photo of Billy Dee Williams as Lando, from the first teaser trailer for TESB. Image composition: Chris Baker.

Early costume concept for Lando Kadar by Ralph McQuarrie, back when Yaphet Kotto was originally being considered for the role in 1978.

Various early costume designs by John Mollo, as showcased by Star Wars Insider magazine back in 2020.

The striking TESB posed cover for Williams' acclaimed autobiography from a few years ago.

'ATTACK' AT 20: ENTER COUNT DOOKU!

The enigmatic but very deadly Count Dooku makes his mark in EPISODE II.

Once an esteemed and valued member of the Jedi Council, Count Dooku of Serenno shockingly abandoned the order and his long-time associates, unhappy with affairs linked to its leadership and the ongoing decisions of the Republic, to ultimately be at the forefront of a building-in-numbers opposing Separatist movement across the galaxy. With such chaos resultant from his actions, what would the consequences be for all should such a respected figure actually be a long-time convert to the Dark Side of the Force?

Early costume design ideas for Count Dooku.

Playing such a charismatic, distinguished, statesman-like figure, capable of showing intellectual superiority fused with dangerous cunning, alongside a skilful arrogance in all his endeavours, only the versatile and excellent British character actor/icon Christopher Lee could play the pivotal role of Dooku, especially with his previous connections to the saga via his dear friend Peter Cushing. Interestingly, another fine actor, Gabriel Byrne, was also allegedly considered, but when the role of Dooku was an earlier idea of being a younger man.

“I didn’t want to keep creating bigger monsters (to become Sith Lords). I decided to make him (Count Dooku) an old gentleman-go more into the elegant mode than a monstrous mode. I just felt it was more right for the part. It’s not as jazzy as other things, but it seemed to fit better.” 

George Lucas - The UK Star Wars Magazine Issue 39-July/August 2002 

On Geonosis, Dooku makes pacts with the Banking Clan and the Techno Unions to overwhelm the currently limited in numbers Republic forces.

“Dooku is a Jedi. And not very many Jedi have turned their back on the Order. He is the latest one to do so. But he is human and speaks and behaves as one in that galaxy far far away. He has supernatural powers. Both Saruman (of The Lord of the Rings) and Dooku have great powers of magic. But that’s the only similarity between the two. Dooku makes his appearance for the first time in five films. That’s very important to me as an actor. All of a sudden he is there. Who is this man, where does he come from? He’s very much a man of mystery.” 

Christopher Lee - Internet interview (source unknown) - 2002

Now on Geonosis, Obi-Wan hears of the plans and warns the Jedi before ultimately being captured by enemy forces.

"I talked to George Lucas about the character. He is a battle-scarred Jedi. The word 'Dooku' is Japanese for 'Poison'.

Christopher Lee - BBC TV interview - 2002

Dooku unsuccessfully tries to convert the captured Obi-Wan Kenobi to the Separatist cause, but not before fusing lies within deep truths about the Republic and the Sith influence.

AN 'EMPIRE' AT 40: LEIA'S NEW WARDROBE!

A new location and a new costume for Princess Leia Organa to enjoy, courtesy of John Mollo, enthusiastically modelled by Carrie Fisher during April, 1979, as seen in these great images posed and on the Bespin corridor set at Elstree.

AN 'EMPIRE' AT 40: COSTUMING LANDO!

Early John Mollo costume design ideas for Lando.

Of all the male characters in the original Star Wars universe, Lando Calrissian had to be one of the most flamboyant and fun to create wardrobes for. Academy Award-winning British costume designer John Mollo created the final simple but effective look for the Baron Administrator that was both practical for long shooting days and also visually be both dashing and subtly heroic (Billy Dee Williams, always an ultra smart man, particularly loving the cape he'd wear with his Empire introduction).

AN 'EMPIRE' AT 40: COSTUMED EPIC!

An early over jacket design for Luke in his X-wing fighter garb on Hoth. All art by John Mollo.

Thrilled with the unexpected success of Star Wars, and even more thrilled to receive an esteemed Academy Award for his work on the film, British Costume Designer John Mollo was back to work the day after his win (3rd April, 1978) to work on The Empire Strikes Back, revising and improving certain old characters and fractional costumes, and, more importantly, creating lots of new wardrobe items large and small for the scenes set on the ice planet Hoth and the 'Art Deco' styled Cloud City at Bespin.

Mollo with Natalie Wood and Darth Vader (Kermit Eller) at the 1978 Academy Awards event.

Mollo would be working alongside new director Irvin Kershner, whom he ultimately didn't have quite as strong a relationship with in comparison to George Lucas back in 1976, allegedly with some new work often frustratingly being altered many times by Kershner in the pre and production phases of the sequel.

Early Rebel soldier and snowtrooper concepts.

Imperial Snowtrooper design.

The Rebels: Luke, Han, fighter pilot and snow trooper.

Leia, Rebel Command Crew and Obi-Wan Kenobi.

The Empire: Darth Vader, Imperial Trooper, TIE fighter pilot.

The Empire: General Veers in AT-AT outfit, Imperial technician and officer.

THE 'PHANTOM' AT TWENTY: COSTUME DRAMA!

In mourning for both the captured people and culture of Naboo, Queen Amidala's decoy Sabe (Keira Knightley) onscreen wears a funereal black outfit when also apprehended by the Trade Federation within the Theed Palace. However, in costume reference and publicity images showcased here (taken in 1997 and 1999), Natalie Portman would wear the costume in Padme's true guise as the Queen. In total, eleven gorgeous and iconic costumes were crated for Queen Amidala/Sabe for EPISODE I.

Natalie Portman talks EPISODE I:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ra91EqeuYA

"He (George Lucas) gave me an overview of when they'd shoot the three movies and promised me I wouldn't have to miss any school, and he pretty much offered the part to me then. They'd drawn all the queens with my features, even though I hadn't been cast yet. I remember getting excited and thinking, "Hey, that looks like me."

Natalie Portman - US Premiere magazine - June 2002

With thanks to the original Across the Stars costume reference website.

An image from a later posed session for the US Premiere film magazine of 1999. Photo by Nigel Parry.

'DESIGNING AN EMPIRE - THE JOHN MOLLO ARCHIVE' - THE UK BONHAMS AUCTION

A blending of Arthurian wizard and Samurai warrior takes shape with John Mollo's memorable costume design for Ben (Obi-Wan) Kenobi - Star Wars 1977.

Despite hard work and best intentions, one of the key traps that a lot of science fiction/fantasy movies and TV series filmmakers would fall into, especially during the sixties and seventies, would be the way that the futuristic clothing worn by their storytelling artists rapidly looked dated and more indicative of the time they were made than they did in reflecting their advanced period status. Not so with the ever enduring Star Wars saga, however, as writer/creator George Lucas immediately saw this inherent problem and was determined it wouldn't happen inside his own cinematic fantasy adventure, cleverly making the costumes of his galaxy far, far away look simple yet subtly sophisticated and inspiring, whilst also devising a clear-cut and relatable visual path for audiences of all ages to identify its near-archetypal heroes and villains transplanted to a new realm.

John Mollo (kneeling) works on an early fitting for Luke Skywalker's costume (with Patrick Ginter) - early 1976. Image: Kurtz/Joiner Archive.

Whilst Ralph McQuarrie was one of the key conceptual artists involved with the look of the characters (from Luke Skywalker to Darth Vader) and their costumes, the ultimate journey in bringing those designs to practical, adapted life on screen fell to the expert hands of the original Star Wars (and its first sequel) Costume Designer: John Mollo. Already an established advisory figure on epic historical productions within the British movie industry by the mid-seventies, coming from a prestigious family which had a long interest and passion for military uniform history, Mollo soon proved the perfect man for the epic vision of Lucas, especially when dealing with the bulk costumes needed for the saga's Rebellion and Empire. Rising above the film's relatively low budget, the resourceful talent was also blessed with a keen eye for what worked on screen and what didn't, quickly establishing a trusting relationship (and easy creative shorthand) with the understated American director and the brash young cast whom he'd costume during the long hot Summer of 1976.

Darth Vader and his assembled military forces, as seen in Mollo's work for The Empire Strikes Back in 1979/80.

One of the many meticulous and colourful Mollo costume design page pieces for Star Wars, under the hammer at Bonhams this month. Image: via BONHAMS.

Mollo sadly passed away during the saga's Fortieth Anniversary in 2017, but the treasure trove legacy of his work- the many stunning and meticulously detailed costume design books, sketches and production notes of his incredible career (not just his Oscar-winning Star Wars work, but other hit films like FOX's subsequent sci-fi horror Alien, the prestigious Richard Attenborough production of Gandhi, and Stanley Kubrick's lush Barry Lyndon), as well as as many military history related gems - are to be auctioned off at the prestigious Bonhams of London on December 11th, 2018, for what will surely be a very exciting event.

Good luck to all the bidders!

More on the Bonhams event - Designing an Empire - The John Mollo Archive:

Official event details and special preview times:
https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25245/

Official video for the auction:
https://www.bonhams.com/video/27092/

One of Mollo's stunning pre-production sketches for Princess Leia, also on auction at Bonhams.

Online articles:

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6451789/Sketchbooks-belonging-Star-Wars-costume-designer-hammer-300-000.html

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/25/arts/design/star-wars-john-mollo-sketches-auction.html

AFICIONADO was in attendance at the London press launch. Image: Bonhams via Instagram.

6/12/18 UPDATE: BONHAMS Press Launch:
https://www.msn.com/en-au/news/other/star-wars-costumes-sketchbooks-seen-fetching-large-sums-at-auction/ar-BBQAA2G

'SOLO': THAT SPACE-AGE MAN ABOUT TOWN LOOK!

Lando's not a system he's a man, Han Solo would later say of the eventual Baron Calrissian of Bespin to Princess Leia. Yet Lando certainly possesses an entire solar system of colourful, stylish and downright wacky clothes and capes in his wardrobe, as seen above in one of the great posed character images of Donald Glover's playing the icon role, from Solo: A Star Wars Story.

Note the fun Ralph McQuarrie referencing on his shirt, to the unused Sicemon planet air taxi from Return of the Jedi.

A fun analysis of the film's costume design
http://clothesonfilm.com/superfly-solo/

More on the concept art:
https://www.comicbookmovie.com/sci-fi/star_wars/new-solo-a-star-wars-concept-art-features-lando-calrissian-and-some-wacky-alternate-designs-for-l3-37-a161074